Couples

The Quieter Side of Nassau / Paradise Island

By Greg Johnston

There are places where the natural surroundings are the main attraction. Places where the fast-paced signs of modern life fade into the background. At these destinations, priorities are things like snorkeling through tropical reefs, enjoying scenic coastal vistas and finding a good place to throw a fishing line.

Nassau / Paradise Island has always been that slice of quiet island life for me - of interesting side trips, charming guesthouses and smaller country-style inns that are perfect for a low-key getaway.

Beaches and Bluffs

One of my favorite spots is the Orange Hill Beach Inn. Built on the grounds of a former 1920s orange plantation, the hilltop resort boasts commanding views of the north coast. What I like most is that it is just 50 steps away from a magnificent beach, Orange Hill Beach.

There's nothing quite like an early morning swim just steps from rolling out of bed, but that's just the beginning. Feeling a little "born to be wild," I rent a moped scooter - fun, but challenging (you try remembering to stay on the left side of the road).

With island map in hand, I cruise, closely hugging the coastal road. Grand views of rolling beachfront slow me down to watch windsurfers at Brown's Point. Later, I chow on cracked conch.

Further along the western road, I come upon the steep ridge at Clifton Pier, its huge cliffs and sea caves once used as a haven by pirates like Blackbeard. A stairwell carved in the cliff-side leads to the ruins of a former 18th-century plantation, now my vantage for a fiery red sunset.

Living History

Nassau is a treasure trove of early Colonial architecture. The rich history of British Colonial rule is expressed from within the battery walls of Fort Charlotte. I am fascinated as I wander down historic lanes among centuries-old buildings, finding hidden jewels like the Queen's Staircase. Climbing the thousand steps (or so it seems) to the top, I visit Fort Fincastle and the Water Tower and shop at a small straw market.

Local Hospitality

Nassau's history is as varied as it is colorful, and best experienced when indulging in local hospitality. At Dillet's Guest House, I discover an authentic Bahamian home built in the late 1920s. You know that you're in for something special the moment you enter the tropical garden. Staying here is kind of like living with your extended family. A resident artist paints renderings of the local area.

Old Nassau Ambience

To completely immerse myself in the early Colonial lifestyle, I visit Graycliff, a jewel of an inn nestled in the heart of Old Nassau. The resort offers exceptional amenities: award-winning cuisine, an atmosphere of romance, a collection of vintage wines and a humidor stocked with a savory selection of cigars. Lazy days can be spent exploring this wonderful old city, like watching the changing of the guard at Parliament Square. Nestled in a residential area two miles east of downtown, the Red Carpet Inn is close to shops, restaurants and the eastern shore, making it a great economical option for families and other cost-minded travelers. The owners live on the 1.5-acre property and rates stay the same year-round.

Beachside Stays

On Paradise Island, I find two resorts offering a quiet island-style experience. At the Paradise Harbour Club & Marina, next door to the Ocean Club Golf Course, you can slip behind the waterfall in the lagoon-style pool, or relax on your private balcony and enjoy the view of downtown Nassau, particularly at night.

Up the hillside to the crest of Paradise Island, the Best Western Bay View Suites offers suites, townhouses and villas. I remind myself to come back for a drink on the "Hibiscus" terrace, a set of tennis on the court and a walk through the gardens. Both resorts are just a few minutes' stroll to the secluded sand dunes at Cabbage Beach. But today, I plan to hike to the east shore at Arawak Beach or perhaps Victoria Beach. I just want to spend a lazy afternoon sunbathing and snorkeling.